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2023 Billy Button ‘The Delinquent’ Verduzzo

A savoury Italian variety that is all about texture.
2023 Billy Button ‘The Delinquent’ Verduzzo

Jo obviously has a thing for the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region of North East Italy. Like Friulano, Verduzzo originates from the same Italian region. Jo knew very little about this variety before taking it on. What she did know was that it is a challenging variety to make because of its high phenolic content in the skin. Problem is, the flavour also exists in the skin, so how do you get the flavour out without making an excessively phenolic wine? Jo said, bring it on. What she discovered is that Verduzzo is a red wine disguised as a white wine. It is a wine not for the faint hearted, it is quite savoury with the phenolics giving the wine a firm structure that demands food, contrasted by an unexpected intensity of citrus and nashi pear fruit character. The fruit is sourced from the Antonello Vineyard at Buffalo Creek.

Say 'ver-dootz-oh'

Production Notes

Once pressed the juice was cold settled and racked keeping light solids. Split in two between a seasoned puncheon and stainless steel for fermentation each batch was inoculated with a selected yeast strain to enhance varietal aroma and flavour.  Both vessels were sulphured at the completion of primary fermentation and matured for a further 6 months on full yeast lees with occasional battonage prior to blending and clarification.  Bottled October 2024.

Tasting Note

Rich aromas of custard apple and baking spices, and an underlying herbal character that defines the variety’s savory qualities. The palate is concentrated and all about texture. Poached apple, ginger, layers of citrus all combine with phenolics and added texture from time on lees to deliver a complex and savoury finish.  A true food wine.

Optimal Tasting Window – 2023 to 2031.  Historic wines from our museum are showing pleasing aging potential for this variety.

Technical details

Vineyard:            Antonello Vineyard, Buffalo Creek

Region:               Alpine Valleys

Alcohol:              12.5 %

Winemaker:        Jo Marsh & Glenn James

Reviews

"Grapefruit was the first word to spring to mine. Then salt. Then an array of tropical and apple-orchard fruits. Then a gravel and granite-like note. This is an excellent white wine, of very good intensity, texture and ultimately character. There are minor signs of development, as a positive and in a good way. A couple of sips and I wanted to lean back and settle in with it." Awarded 92 points, The Winefront, Campbell Mattinson - Posted on 25 May 2026

"Ah, Verduzzo! I’ve probably drank only three examples of it my whole life; two were made here in Australia. Nowhere better than North-East Victoria to handle those rare, often over-looked Italian grape varieties. And no one better than Jo Marsh to make a lovely wine out of it. Despite the dry style (Verduzzo is often made in dry, medium, or sweet styles in Italy), I love its golden colour and honeyed character. There is also an herbal, greenish accent, hence the name, which means green. White peach, spicy poached pear, and a considered mid-palate concentration with a salivating acidity. Just yum." Awarded 90 points, WinePilot, Lisa Cardelli - published February 2024

"Tough grape, tough year and yet this '23 verduzzo sings, revealing its usual wild herbs and savoury side with a distinctive and downright charming citrus and lifted aromatic disposition. It rolls effortlessly over the tongue, nicely textured with focused citrus, pear, and tropical fruits, finishing clean. The Delinquent shines." Awarded 90 points, Halliday Wine Companion, Jeni Port - Published 07 August 2024

 

Vintage
2023
Varietal
Other
Appellation
Alpine Valleys